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Falling Temperatures Fewer Insects

Falling Temperatures do not Necessarily Mean Fewer Insects

With record-breaking cold temperatures in much of the United States recently, newspaper headlines have suggested that the freezing weather this winter could mean fewer insects next spring. For example: “Celebrating Deep Freeze, Insect Experts See a Chance to Exterminate Off Invasive Species”. “The Upside Of The Bitter Cold: It exterminates Bugs That Kill Trees”. “Extreme cold may wipe out high percentage emerald ash borer larvae”. While it’s true that insects will die if exposed to very cold temperatures for prolonged periods of time, many are able to survive, depending on the insect and the circumstances. It’s Déjà vu All Over Again … Pest Control Residential Home ServicesThis is nothing new, of course. In fact, two years ago we faced a very similar situation when an extraordinarily mild winter gave rise to headlines about how the warmer temperatures would mean greater insect populations come spring. Mosquitoes for example would thrive, the thinking went, because of the lack of freezing temperatures. However, leaders of the Entomological Society of America said “Don’t Bug Out Over Warmer Weather” in a press release, explaining that lots of other factors affect insect populations besides temperatures. “States like Alaska and Minnesota are famous for their brutally cold winters, and yet they are also known to have extremely active mosquito populations during the summer,” said ESA past President Grayson Brown, who explained that mosquitoes are even more affected by the amount of rain during the spring, since they need water to lay their eggs. ESA’s past Vice President Robert Wiedenmann said that in some cases the warm winter could even cause harm. “Some insects that emerge earlier than normal because of warm temperatures may not find the appropriate food sources available and could starve,” he said. “Likewise, mild winters may favor the predatory or parasitic insects that help keep pests in check, and result in fewer pests. Insect ecology is affected by a number of factors and is not solely dependent on winter or spring temperatures.” Long Story Short: It’s Complicated … Which bring us to our current situation. While it’s true that extremely cold temperatures for prolonged periods of time can decrease insect populations, other factors are at play as well. The Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) is a good example, since it has received so much press recently. Ironically, the recent cold spell could actually end up helping the EAB in certain areas because the freezing temperatures might harm EAB predators. A few years ago, scientists in Michigan and other states began releasing tiny parasitoid wasps that help control the EAB by laying eggs into or on the EAB larvae. “In general, parasitoids are more susceptible to stressors (e.g., pesticides, cold temperatures) than their hosts,” said Dr. Jian Duan, one of the scientists who has been rearing and releasing the wasps. “If this year’s cold temperature kills overwintering EAB larvae, it will surely exterminate the associated parasitoids — even more so than EAB.” “Prolonged very cold temperatures can definitely kill off both EAB and the parasitoids, and the parasitoids appear to be less cold-hardy than the EAB themselves,” said Dr. Jonathan Lelito, another USDA researcher. Dr. Lelito went on to explain that even in extremely cold regions like northern Minnesota and parts of Canada, where a significant portion of EABs may have died because of the cold, the effect will not extirpate the species completely. “Even with 50% mortality, the populations will recover in a few years or so and the infestation will continue on,” he said. “But biological control is a long game. Occasional setbacks will occur, and the populations of both hosts and parasitoids will tend to oscillate through time anyway. The long-term goal is the establishment of a balance, and severe weather events are just a step in the long march, so to speak.” The same holds true for other insects. Once again: It’s complicated. Article submitted by William A. Kolbe, BCE is a Board Certified Entomologist for Viking Pest Control based out of Warren, NJ. He has a Bachelor’s Degree in Entomology with a minor in Ecology from the University of Delaware. He is a member of The Denville NJ Community Gardens. He can be reached at 800-618-2847 or visit preview0.dev1.snyderpreview.com Reprinted with Permission from Richard Levine, Communications Program Manager at Entomological Society of America. Richard is editor and head writer of the Entomology Today Blog. Original article at: http://entomologytoday.org/2014/01/13/falling-temperatures-do-not-necessarily-mean-fewer-insects/

BUGS and the Real Christmas Tree

BUGS and the Real Christmas Tree Source: Rayanne D. Lehman and James F. Stimmel Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture, Bureau of Plant Industry Purchasing a REAL Christmas tree may be a big decision for many people, but fears of introducing unwanted and potentially harmful pests into the home via the tree are unwarranted. Every Christmas tree can harbor insects, mites, or spiders. Some of these may remain on the tree into winter and could become active after being exposed to the warm temperatures inside the home. Although many will stay on the tree, a few may be attracted to sources of light, including windows. But, because they are associated with field-grown conifers, none of these accidental introductions are a threat to your home, its contents, or occupants. Preventing introduction of these "pests" into your home is the best, and easiest, plan. Mechanical tree shakers, available at some retail lots, are useful in removing some insects from the trees. Vigorously shaking the tree before bringing it into your home will serve the same purpose, and will also remove any loose needles. Bird nests, although considered decorative by some people, may contain bird parasites such as mites and lice. They should be removed by hand if not dislodged by shaking. Any egg masses on the trees, including those of praying mantids and Gypsy moth, should also be removed. Control of these temporary invaders should be limited to non-chemical means. Aerosol insect sprays are flammable and should NOT, under any circumstances, be sprayed on the Christmas tree. Insects occurring on the tree should be left there until the tree is removed. Any that collect on ceilings, walls, or windows can be eliminated with a vacuum cleaner. It is important to remember that these "critters" are normally found outdoors, on LIVE trees. Warm temperatures, low humidities and lack of appropriate food conditions typical of most homes will usually exterminate these invaders in a short time. No Christmas tree will have every pest on the following list. In fact, most will be free of these hitchhikers. Occasionally, however, one or more of the following may find its way into your home on your tree.

Adelgids

Sometimes a tree (especially white pine) will seem to develop its own "flocking" on twigs and bark. This is probably due to the pine bark adelgid, a tiny, apidlike, sucking insect that secretes cottony wax filaments over its body. These adelgids are sedentary and do not leave the tree, but the spontaneous "flocking" may be a cause for curiosity or even concern. These adelgids, and the "flocking" they produce, are harmless.

Aphids

Occasionally, aphids will hatch from Christmas trees in sufficient numbers to cause alarm. Most aphids are tiny, inactive, and usually go unnoticed. Aphids of the genus Cinara, however, reach a length of nearly 1/8 inch, making them one of the largest of our native aphids. Most forms, especially those of early generations, are wingless and remain active throughout their lives. If your Christmas tree remains indoors for an extended period (particularly if it is a live tree) these aphids may produce offspring, and winged forms may occur. With their brownish or blackish coloration and long legs, Cinara aphids may be mistaken for small spiders or ticks. Aphids, however, have only six legs, while spiders and ticks have eight. Also, these insects do not produce silk or webs, typical of spiders. On true firs, balsam twigs aphid may occur. This gray-green species is much smaller than the spiderlike Cinara aphids found on pines and spruces. Outdoors, their overwintering eggs normally hatch in very early spring; indoors, they may hatch before the Christmas tree is removed. They are less likely to be abundant than Cinara aphids. All aphids on Christmas trees are host specific, i.e., they can only survive by feeding on certain plants. They will not feed on your houseplants.

Bark Beetles

Several species of minute, dark brown to black beetles may be found on or near the tree. They may be boring into the trunk, creating small holes and very fine sawdust. These are bark beetles that were overwintering in the tree. Although they bore into bark or wood, they are not a threat to any of the furnishings or structural parts of the house because wood inside the home is too dry for these beetles to survive. When the tree is removed at the end of the holiday season, the bark beetles will again go into dormancy, resuming their normal activity in spring.

Mites

Many species of predatory mites overwinter as adults and become active when exposed to warm temperatures in the home. They generally remain on the tree, where they may prey on insect and mite eggs. Most of these tiny, light-colored mites will go unnoticed. One type, however, is bright red and rather large. These predatory mites are relatives of chiggers, but in the adult state are not a threat to people or animals. Read the Original Article Here Several species of bird parasites may be found in nesting material after the birds have abandoned the nest. Although these mites are generally not present on the trees in winter, bird nests on the tree should be removed to assure that no mites are brought into the home.

Praying Mantids

These large, showy insects overwinter in egg masses that are frequently attached to conifer limbs. These eggs will begin to hatch after being indoors for several weeks. When this happens, numerous tiny mantids swarm over the tree seeking food. Since they are cannibalistic they will eat each other if no other food is available. The popular misconception that these beneficial insects are protected by law may prompt people to attempt to keep praying mantids alive until they can be released outdoors. None of the mantids are protected and keeping them alive in captivity is impossible, given the voracious appetite of a growing mantid. Also, if released outdoors when temperatures warm in early spring, survivors would quickly die, since their life cycle would not be synchronized with their prey. It is best to look for the light tan, walnut-sized, frothy egg masses on the tree before it is taken indoors. Cut out any small twig with an attached egg mass and place it in an evergreen shrub or tree outdoors. In spring, eggs will hatch and the mantids will have appropriate food available.

Psocids

These insects are sometimes, unfortunately, referred to as "barklice," a name that is misleading since there is nothing louselike about them. Psocids are small, winged, soft-bodied insects colored gray or brown. "Barklice" are not parasitic and do not bite, but feed on a variety of materials, including fungus, mold, pollen, and dead insects. They can be found outdoors on the bark of many trees, including Christmas trees, but will quickly die from conditions in most homes.

Scale Insects

Crawlers of scale species that overwinter in the egg stage may appear on trees kept indoors long enough for eggs to hatch. The most likely candidate is the pine needle scale. If its populations are high, large numbers of red crawlers moving about on the tree may be mistaken for mites, "lice," or some other tiny insect. These crawlers could easily be shaken or knocked from the tree and may be noticeable (especially on a light background ) as tiny, slowly moving red specks. If crushed, they may leave red spots or streaks that can be removed with soapy water. Pine tortoise scale and striped pine scale will not produce crawlers indoors. Both scales overwinter as immatures and do not have sufficient time to mature and produce offspring on trees kept indoors. If they begin to feed, however, they may excrete small amounts of a clear, sticky liquid known as honeydew.

Spiders

Spiders found on Christmas trees are predators of insects and are not dangerous to people or pets. They are either overwintering species that have become active or spiderlings that have hatched after being exposed to warm temperatures. In most cases, they will remain on the tree and go unnoticed. But, if they venture off, they may weave small webs on walls, ceilings or furniture. These webs, and their inhabitants, can be removed easily with a vacuum cleaner or dusting brush. It is important to remember that the spiders brought in with the tree are not indoor species and will die in a short time because of their new, unsuitable environment. Read the Original Article Here

Winter: What Happens To The Insects?

  Winter can be quite harsh on humans, animals and insects and their arthropod relatives and so far we are off to a very cold winter.  If you think you had a bad winter, you might want to see the movie The March of the Penguins.  I would even suggest you encourage your employees and their families to see this award winning movie.  Morgan Freeman narrates this epic adventure and the move details the hardships that the Emperor penguins endure as they take their annual 100+ mile trip to find a mate.  In the Antarctic, every March since the beginning of time, the quest begins so the penguins find the perfect mate and start a family.  We know from experience that insects survive the winter and emerge in the warm spring months to complete their life cycles. Insects are not warm-blooded animals.  Insects do not really hibernate although this term is used commonly to describe their behavior.  Insects actually go into a resting phase caused diapause.  Diapause is very complex so let’s break it down a little. Diapause is usually done by insects.  There are two kinds of diapause:   Obligatory diapause--a word that just means that the animal or insect MUST do this at some stage in its development.  It has no choice.  Facultative diapause - another big word that means the animal goes to 'sleep' because something bad is going to happen.  With facultative diapause, the creature goes to sleep BEFORE the drought or cold weather.  Diapause is the way insects adapt to the world around them.  Insects can be active in the rainy season and ‘sleep’ during drought conditions. Insects get warning signals a few times before they actually do anything about it.  These warning signs might be days becoming shorter.  They can sense this and send out the message for ‘sleep’.  After a few warning-signal days, the female will lay ‘diapausing’ eggs.  These eggs will have their cycle from egg to adult stopped somewhere but will continue when conditions get better for survival. Most people make the mistake of assuming that super cold winters will kill off most of the insect and mite pests. In cold weather, insects and mites avoid being killed by producing a type of anti- freeze in their bodies or by locating over-wintering sites which do not actually freeze. Most insects and mites which over-winter as eggs, pupae or other resting forms on or near their host plant convert their body sugars into a type of antifreeze.  These pests are rarely killed by the extremes of cold in their normal range.  Let’s look at activity levels of some insects over the winter.  At 50F, female mosquitoes are actively seeking warm-blooded hosts from which to take a blood meal.  We’ve all seen cluster flies and lady bird beetles emerge in the coldest of winter months during a bright sunny day.  How many times have you come back at night and seen insects flying around your outside porch light wondering how these insects are going to survive?  Many species of ants are active during the winter.  Outdoors, the most active ants in winter seem to be leaf cutter ants. They strip vegetation from plants ranging from evergreens, to trees, to ball moss-- yes, ball moss! As for those Emperor penguins we mentioned early on in this article they actually need a long harsh Antarctic winter in order to find a mate and raise a family.  They travel over 100 miles to the exact place they were born to find their perfect mate and have their offspring.  I could tell you why they do this but I would rather you see the movie and find out for yourself.  I promise you’ll have a better respect for our mild winters where you live (compared to what you’ll see about the Antarctic) and you will absolutely be amazed by the life of the Emperor penguins. penguins             (Emperor penguins starting their 100+ mile trip to find a mate and raise a family.  Picture credit: Warner Brothers Studios and National Geographic Films)   Editor’s Note:  William A. Kolbe, BCE is a Board Certified Entomologist for Viking Pest Control based out of Warren, NJ.  He has a Bachelor’s Degree in Entomology with a minor in Ecology from the University of Delaware. He is a member of The Denville NJ Community Gardens.   He can be reached at 800-618-2847  or visit preview0.dev1.snyderpreview.com  

Deadly Kissing Bug Could Be In New Jersey

Deadly Kissing Bug Could Be In New Jersey The “triatomine bugs” carry a deadly parasite and feed on the blood of mammals, including humans. By TOM DAVIS (Patch Staff),  November 25, 2015 Deadly Kissing Bug Could Be In New JerseyA deadly insect known as the “kissing bug” could potentially be in New Jersey, according to the Center for Disease Control and Prevention. The “triatomine bugs” are primarily nocturnal and feed on the blood of mammals - including humans - as well as birds and reptiles. They often carry a parasite that causes Chagas disease, which can be fatal if left untreated, according to a CDC release. The CDC says there have been sightings of the bug in southern states, the Pacific West, the Midwest and in Pennsylvania. But the CDC did not identify how many of the bugs have been reported. In a map on its site (click here), the CDC identified all the states where reported sitings have occurred, noting there have been “potential” sitings of the bug in New Jersey and West Virginia. Read The Rest of Deadly Kissing Bug Could Be In New Jersey Here.

Winter Pests

Don’t Let Bugs and Rodents Ruin Your Cozy Home

While we associate spring and summer with pests because of the seasonal arrival of termite swarms, mosquitos, and baby animal populations, the reality is that the winter is the worst time for pests for many New Jersey area homeowners.  While cold weather does kill of many of the nuisance pest species, other ones move inside to overwinter, which can turn pests that are a mere nuisance outside into a major problem.  Pests that come inside can damage homes and belongings and expose families to illnesses.  That is why it is so important to keep pests outside. Viking Pest Control is a specialist at pest prevention. Just like with most other problems, preventing a pest infestation is much easier than eradicating pests once they have invaded a home.  That is why Viking Pest Control performs pest prevention services for their customers.  We not only inspect your home to spot potential sources for pest invasions, but also remediate those problems to keep the pests outside.  Of course, we also look for evidence that pests are already in your home.  This evidence includes gnaw marks, droppings, and other tall-tell signs that the pests are lurking. There are affordable things you can do to prevent winter pests. Not all of our customers need a professional pest inspection.  You can take steps to keep winter pests out of your home, many of which are absolutely free or cost very little money.  Dedicate a morning or afternoon to the inspection and the time you spend will be well worth it, by helping you achieve a pest-free home this winter.
  1. Use plastic containers for storage instead of cardboard boxes; cardboard is easy for rodents and bugs to eat through and does not deter pest infestations.
  2. Dispose of your inside garbage regularly and, if you store garbage between trash pickups, keep your garbage cans located away from your home and use locking lids to discourage pests from invading the garbage. While you are at it, store any firewood away from the house, as well.  You do not want your home or your yard to be seen as a feeding ground for pests.
  3. Use screens to block household vents and other openings.
  4. Install gutters to divert water away from your home; standing water attracts all sorts of pests. Fix any water leaks in your home; rodents and bugs can use even tiny water leaks as a water source.
  5. Store food in airtight containers.
  6. Seal any cracks or holes on the outside of the home, and ensure that any areas where utilities and pipes enter your home are caulked so that they do not have any holes surrounding them. Even a small hole can become a passageway for pests.
  7. Inspect for gnaw marks. Wires, insulation, and walls are all favorite targets for rodent gnawing, so inspect them carefully.
  8. If you see any evidence of pests, including gnaw marks, droppings, or suspicious scurrying sounds, handle the problem immediately. Pets multiply very quickly and it is a lot easier to control one or two pests than it is to control a colony!
 

National Breast Cancer Awareness month

October is National Breast Cancer Awareness month. In support of this, all Viking techs and sales reps will be wearing pink booties while inspecting and servicing client locations. Below are some group pictures of the different branches sporting the booties.

    Viking Pest Breast Cancer Awareness    

Fall Pest Prevention

It is Easier and Safer to Keep the Pests Out Than It is to Try to Get Them Out

When you think of a pest control company, your mind probably automatically goes to exterminators and pesticides.  While those are a part of a pest control business, anyone with experience in pest control will tell you that it is much easier and more affordable to keep pests from invading a home than it is to make a home pest-free after it has been infested.  That is why Viking Pest Control is happy to offer a fall pest prevention package for its New Jersey area customers. The key to pest prevention is to keep them from coming into your home.  Why do they want in your home in the first place?  Your home is warm and inviting, while outside it is starting to get cold and hostile.  In fact, many pests know that they will not survive the winter if they stay outside, but that they can thrive in a warm environment.  Therefore, pests will try very hard to get into your home and even relatively large pests, like mice, can come through very small spaces. Step one is to locate any pest entrances.  Common entrances include around doorways and windows, and any normal entrances to your home, like dryer vents and soffit gaps.  After an inspection, the Viking Pest Control pest prevention experts will seal any pest entrances. This can include securing your dryer vent, blocking potential entrances with copper mesh, using caulk to fill gaps in trim and siding, and using weather stripping to ensure that doors and windows are snug. Step two is to take preventative measures to keep your home from seeming inviting.  Warmth is great, but pests need more than warmth to survive.  It is important to deprive them of the moisture they need, so Viking’s pest prevention experts will look for any sources of moisture in your home, such as leaks under sinks and in cabinets, and let you know about them.  They will also look for areas that are hospitable for pests such as clutter under sinks or along floors. Prevention is ongoing, so step three will require collaboration between you and Viking’s pest control team. You will need to keep pet and human food sealed and out of reach.  Furthermore, if there are signs that you already have bests, Viking may use pesticides or employ traps to eliminate the current pet population. Working together, you and Viking Pest Control can ensure a pest-free fall for your home!

What Bugs Me About Fall

Insects and Rodents That Become More of a Nuisance in Autumn

  With fall comes a change in the seasons that means colder weather and changing vegetation.  Every time there is an outdoor temperature change or a change in food sources, one can expect to encounter different types of pests.  Changing temperatures also mean that pests that can be found outside, year round, may be coming inside to avoid cold weather.  Pests you are likely to see in the all include mice, squirrels, spiders, lady bugs, stink bugs, boxelder bugs, and cluster flies. Lady bugs are a type of beetle.  Easily recognizable by their red bodies with black spots, lady bugs are considered by many to be a “cute” pest and are even used to control other pests in some garden applications.  In fact, they are predators that eat the bugs that might otherwise destroy your plants.  In other words, if you notice a lady bug infestation and see plant damage because of it, you are probably noticing damage done by the bugs that lady bugs eat, such as aphids, and the lady bugs might be your best way to get rid of the garden-eating pests! Stink bugs, as their name implies, are stinky!  They are brown bugs with an oval-shaped body and a pointy head.  They came to the US from China and Japan, and when cold weather hits, they often move inside and become a nuisance.  While they are unlikely to harm you, if you step on a stink bug you will quickly understand how they got their name. Boxelder bugs are black with red markings on their wings.  They feed on all types of trees and plants, but their favorite food is the boxelder tree, and, left unchecked, they can do considerable damage to many types of seed-bearing plants. Cluster flies are a little larger than a house fly and not only create a nuisance, but can also help spread disease. The above fall pests are not particularly damaging to homes or gardens, but can become a real nuisance to homeowners.  Like us, they want to be warm and toasty for the winter, and even the tiniest crack allows them to enter a home.  At Viking Pest Control, we can use pesticides to help exterminate any infestation, but prevention is better than a cure.  Our fall pest prevention package targets vulnerabilities in your home, to help keep the bugs, as well as mice, squirrels, and other rodents from coming into your home for the winter.  

Mexican Bean Beetles

Mexican Bean Beetles By William A. Kolbe B.C.E. New Jersey Gardeners are reporting sightings and damage on beans (especially lima and snap beans) from Mexican Bean Beetles (MBB). Activity levels and ensuing damage by these plant feeders will vary this year due to the cool spring and water amounts from rainfall (and lack of rain). They tend to pose fewer problems in dry climates. Host plants are usually legumes. Eggs of the MBB are bright yellow, laid on-end and in clusters of 40-60 on lower leaf surfaces. Larvae are yellow, oval shaped, covered with small black spines (they appear fuzzy) soft-bodied. Larvae go through 4 instars. Pupae are yellow-orange, similar to larvae but smooth and lighter in color, with spiny larval skin pushed down to the point of attachment to plants. Adults are convex oval form similar to lady bugs, one-third inch long, orange to copper colored with 16 black spots arranged in three rows of 6-6-4 on the back. MBB larvae and adults feed on the underside of leaves between the veins, removing the lower epidermis of the leaf. The upper epidermis dies, producing a transparent, lacy look. Damaged tissue falls out and skeletonized leaves may curl and fall off. Larvae are particularly damaging to leaves. Adults may feed on blossoms, pods and stems. Adults are the overwintering stage and usually aggregate under plant debris. They can be in open fields or in wooded areas. Adults emerge in the spring and lay eggs on the undersides of leaves. Larvae hatch out in two weeks and join adults feeding on foliage. Adults are strong flyers. In cool weather the entire Mexican bean beetle life cycle can take 45 days or more, but 30 days is more typical. There are one to three generations per year. Early monitoring is helpful in preparing for this pest. Inspect leaf undersides for yellow egg clusters. Brilliant yellow larvae and coppery adults are easy to spot.

Tips for Prevention

Control. Organic controls for Mexican bean beetles include crop rotation, handpicking and maintaining good insect balance in the garden so that a wide variety of natural predators are present. Cover entire rows of beans with floating row cover after planting. You can leave the cover on until harvest. Crush egg clusters, larvae, and adults by hand. Purchase and release the beneficial wasp Pediobius faveolatus when larvae are first observed. Most practical in large plantings or community gardens. For severe infestations requiring insecticides use, consider organic methods such as spinosad, neem, or pyrethrum. Contact Rutgers Extension Agents for recommendations. Pull up and bag bean plants after harvest. Plant resistant cultivars such as “Wade and “Logan” snap beans and “Black Valentine” lima beans. Leave a few flowering weeds between rows to attract native predators and parasites, or interplant with flowers such as Queen Anne's lace or yarrow, and herbs such as dill to encourage beneficial insects such as spined soldier bugs (Podisus maculiventris) and parasitic wasp Pediobius foveolatus. Conclusion: Keep a close watch on your growing beans in spring, and do not allow the first generation of Mexican bean beetles to triple itself by the time your beans grow into big, robust plants. Do all you can to provide food and habitat for beneficial wasps, flies, ladybeetles, and predatory stink bugs. Scout for eggs if adults are seen, using a small hand-held mirror to get a good look at leaf undersides. Planting plenty of flowers that attract beneficial insects is a sound strategy, along with maintaining seldom-disturbed islands that provide habitat for ground beetles and other beneficials. Images of Mexican Bean Beetle can be found at various internet sites. IPM images is one such site: http://www.ipmimages.org/search/action.cfm?q=Mexican%20bean%20beetle Editor’s Note: William A. Kolbe, BCE is a Board Certified Entomologist for Viking Pest Control based out of Warren, NJ. He has a Bachelor’s Degree in Entomology with a minor in Ecology from the University of Delaware. He is a member of The Denville NJ Community Gardens. He can be reached at 800-618-2847 or visit preview0.dev1.snyderpreview.com

Proper Trap Placements for Summertime Pests

Proper Trap Placements for Summertime Pests By Gregory Covello A.C.E. Summer is finally here and as our gardens flourish so do the pests that invade them. Throughout my travels I often encounter do-it-yourselfers trying to eliminate a variety of pests using various traps. Many times I can’t help to notice the poor placement of pest traps. I would like to share some tips on proper placement of various traps to affectively capture your target pest. One of the most common trap placement blunders that I encounter is placements of lure traps near areas where humans will congregate. I have witnessed a countless number of yellow jacket traps place near pool yards and picnic tables. There are a variety of yellow jacket and wasp traps commercially available to reduce the number of these stinging insects without using pesticides. These traps utilize either a commercially prepared lure, or a beverage or your choice (extra sugary sodas or beer would be my recommendation) to attract the insect to the trap. When you place these traps on or near the picnic table that you are eating at, you are actually enticing the stinging insects towards you. Stinging insect traps should be placed away from the areas that you are trying to protect. Traps should be placed by hanging them from trees, poles, or fences where people will not be spending time. Try to establish a perimeter of these traps along your property line, not near your home or garden. In similar fashion to the stinging insect trap, there are commercially available mosquito traps. Most of the mosquito traps that are available utilize a propane tank that fuels a unit that is designed to emit carbon dioxide that will attract mosquitoes within a certain radius. You do not want the center of the attraction zone to be your garden. If you choose to invest in one of these units, once again, keep it away from areas frequented by people such as gardens, and outdoor dining areas. One of the most common summer garden pests also has a commercially available lure trap. The Japanese beetle trap, often easily recognized by the hanging bag full of bugs is another attractant type trap. Most of these traps are actually sold with pole type stand to hang the trap from. The lures available with these traps are highly attractive to Japanese beetles making it once again extremely important to place these traps away from you roses and veggies. Japanese beetle traps should be placed upwind of your garden, not in it. Also, follow the labeled instructions for the number of units you should use. Often, multiple units may be necessary to get a desired level of control. Traps are not only for insect pests. Another common summertime invader is the groundhog. There are various types of live traps available to get rid of this common excavator. The common box style live trap can be an effective tool if placed correctly. Sometimes you have to study your target a little before placing a trap. Often I see traps placed directly next to a groundhog burrow. Although you will occasionally trap a groundhog with trap placement near the burrow, a better solution is to place the trap where the groundhog is feeding. Leave a trail of bait leading up to the trap. Make sure bait is place behind the trigger plate, not in front of or on the trigger. Be creative with you bait choices when trapping a groundhog. As a general rule, use whatever the groundhog may be damaging or eating out of your garden. If your tomatoes are getting eaten, using a tomato as bait is probably a good choice. I have successfully used apples, tomatoes, and dark leafed lettuces that stand up well in the high summertime temperatures. I have heard of successes using cantaloupe and other fruits, however, I cannot share any personal success stories with cantaloupe. Unless the trap you have is specifically designed to place directly over the burrow, try not to place the cage too close to the burrow as to not alarm the animal. Best of luck to you with your trapping endeavors.